We’ve held off a bit on putting together this guide to the things to see and things to do in Dumaguete, as we’ve been focused on the natural charms of the Philippines. Still, the time has come to talk about the capital of Negros Oriental!
Why visit Dumaguete?
While we have to admit that Philippine cities aren’t as interesting as those in other Asian countries (places as cool as Chiang Mai or Ubud come to mind), the truth is that among all of them, Dumaguete isn’t bad at all.
Known as “The City of Gentle People” for the kindness of its residents, it’s a coastal city that isn’t as chaotic as Cebu or Manila and, therefore, is much more manageable and pleasant to live in. You’ve got all the services needed to lead a quiet life at a good price, as well as shopping malls, cool restaurants, decent hospitals, and fast internet. Add to that an immigration office to extend your visa when needed. For all these reasons, you’ll find lots of Westerners who have been settled here for years. It’s no coincidence that Forbes included it in its list of “The 7 Best Places to Retire Around the World.”
On the other hand, you’ll quickly notice that Dumaguete has a different vibe. Thanks to its schools and universities, with the historic Silliman University standing out, the city draws many students from other islands in the Visayas and Mindanao.
From a tourism perspective, Dumaguete is the starting point for visiting other places like Siquijor or Apo Island. If you’re up for going off the beaten path, you’ll also find some waterfalls, mountains, incredible dive spots, and even the so-called “Maldives of the Philippines” nearby—more than enough reasons to stay a couple of nights. Finally, just a few kilometers away you have Dauin, one of the meccas of diving in the Philippines.
Want to know everything? Keep reading and discover what to see and what to do in Dumaguete.
Things to do in Dumaguete
1. St. Catherine of Alexandria Church
The history of the Philippines is also reflected in the city center; that’s why our first stop is St. Catherine of Alexandria Church. Also known as the Dumaguete Cathedral, the original building was constructed in 1776 and is believed to be the oldest black-stone church in Negros. However, it had to be rebuilt in 1885 and much of its main façade dates from 1936. If you look closely, you’ll find four columns in front symbolizing Saints Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. You’ll also see two statues of Saints Peter and Paul above the façade.
Every time we’ve passed through Dumaguete, we’ve seen it full of people—especially on weekends, when the faithful even have to stand outside to attend Mass.
2. Dumaguete Belfry or Bell Tower
In our opinion, the most interesting thing to do in Dumaguete is visit the Dumaguete Belfry or Bell Tower. Located next to the cathedral, this tower was built in 1811 and holds the title of the oldest standing belfry in the Visayas region. It’s made mostly of coral and has a pentagonal plan.
Although it is now an important site of religious pilgrimage—and you’ll find it full of people lighting candles to the image of Our Lady of Perpetual Help at its base—the tower once served to watch for and warn citizens of pirate attacks, known at the time as Moros. They were in search of wealth and slaves.
In the surrounding area you’ll find small stalls selling colorful religious items such as rosaries, little statues, and, of course, candles.
3. Silliman University
Students are largely to “blame” for Dumaguete being much livelier than other cities. Particularly important in this sense is Silliman University or the University of Silliman, one of the most important universities in the Philippines and in Asia.
Founded in 1901, it was the country’s first American and Protestant educational institution. It’s named in honor of Horace Brinsmade Silliman, a New York businessman and philanthropist who donated $10,000 to start the boys’ school that became a university in 1938.
Today, Silliman University has more than 10,000 students from the Philippines and over 50 other countries. It has expanded throughout the city, but the most beautiful and significant building is Silliman Hall. The first structure was erected in 1902, but what we see today dates from 1909, making it the oldest American building in the Philippines. It was built in what is known as the Stick style.
Another interesting place to see in Dumaguete is the Silliman University Anthropology Museum. It was relocated from Silliman Hall to the second floor of Hibbard Hall in 2015. In addition to visiting this 1940s building, you’ll find archaeological remains from excavations in Negros and Mindanao, as well as objects from indigenous groups in Luzon and other parts of the Visayas. Admission is 100 pesos per person.
You can take a stroll around the campus—full of huge acacias—enjoy the university atmosphere and, if it fits your plans, drop by the Silliman University Church.
4. Rizal Boulevard
It may sound a bit cheesy, but one of the best things to do in Dumaguete is simply to walk it. For us, this is one of the most pleasant cities in the Philippines, so we always take the chance to go for a stroll. The most interesting part to do so is, without a doubt, Rizal Boulevard or Paseo Rizal, in honor of the Filipino hero.
It starts at the port and runs along much of the city by the sea, making it a seafront promenade that comes alive around 16:00 as the sun begins to dip. You’ll find it full of people enjoying the changing colors in the sky, sitting on a boat with views of Siquijor, buying ice creams, taho, meat skewers, and even taking a dip.
Speaking of food, relatively close to the port a famous night food market pops up, known for its tempura skewers and baluts. If you’re hungry and want a quick bite, go for it. For something less informal, along Rizal Boulevard you’ll find plenty of nice restaurants and cafés. Don’t miss our “Where to eat in Dumaguete” section for more info.
? If you like snapping photos for the memories, look for the punny sign they came up with: #DumaGetMe. On the map at the end of this article, you’ll see it marked as #DumaGetMe Signage.
5. Try puto maya at the Dumaguete Public Market
It’s always interesting to snoop around markets, but one of the things we suggest doing in Dumaguete is heading to its public market to try some of its typical goodies on the spot. The most famous? One whose name is a bit “peculiar” in Spanish: puto maya.
This is a very common breakfast among Dumagueteños: glutinous rice cooked with a bit of coconut milk and wrapped in banana leaves, usually served with a little chocolate (sikwate) or, even better, with mango. It’s already sweet on its own, but it won’t be unusual for them to offer condensed milk or peanut butter.
If you’re still hungry, order a bud-bod kabug. This is also a sweet wrapped in banana leaves, but made with millet and rice or just millet. You won’t have trouble finding places that sell them, but if you don’t see any, ask for the painitan area.
By the way, if you’re in Dumaguete on a Wednesday, it’s worth heading early in the morning to Malatapay. That’s the day when the area’s most famous and picturesque market is held, where all the producers gather. You just have to go to the Ceres station and catch a southbound bus. It won’t take more than 20 minutes.
6. Quezon Park
Right in front of St. Catherine of Alexandria Church and the belfry is this popular square where you can sit to rest for a while and, why not, buy some peanuts or a snack.
The park was named in honor of Manuel L. Quezon, the second president of the Philippines. In the center you’ll see a small monument featuring the statues of José Rizal and María Clara. There are also several cannons and, most importantly, the tourist office.
It’s usually much livelier when the sun starts to set and it cools down. That’s when you’ll see lots of kids playing, teenagers flirting, and many street vendors. As a curiosity, you’ll also find people giving foot massages (something that even happens in Philippine airports). Don’t hesitate: for less than 100 pesos you’ll get a roughly 45-minute massage session and a quirky experience to boot.
7. Other interesting places to see in Dumaguete
- Chinese Bell Church: at the southern tip of Rizal Boulevard you’ll find this curious and colorful Taoist temple. Admission is free and you can visit from 6:00 to 18:00.
- Freedom Park or Aquino Freedom Park: built in memory of one of the Philippines’ most influential politicians, Ninoy Aquino, this park is one of the most popular places to see in Dumaguete. With its lawns, fountains, and benches, many families and groups of friends come to hang out—especially in the afternoon, when it’s not so hot. Many of the activities of the city’s most important festival, the Buglasan Festival, are held here in late September and early October.
- Silliman Beach: much of southeastern Negros has dark sand, so its beaches don’t have that much charm. Still, if you need a dip, even though it’s by no means one of the most beautiful beaches in the Philippines, Silliman Beach is very close to the center and is a weekend gathering spot for families. It’s a pity it’s often a bit dirty, but, as a curiosity, being so close to the airport you’ll enjoy watching planes land and take off.
- Shopping malls in Dumaguete: we’re not big fans of shopping, but if you need supplies, want to browse, or even go to the movies, you won’t lack options. The most modern is Robinsons Place Dumaguete, near the Ceres bus station, and it even has cinemas. Very close by is Subida store, great for souvenirs. Others that may suit you are City Mall and Lee Super Plaza, the latter downtown. At Handumanan Souvenir Shop you’ll find T-shirts, magnets, keychains… Read What to buy in the Philippines if you need ideas.
- Cat-al World War II Museum: located a bit far from the center, we only recommend adding it to your list of things to see in Dumaguete if you’re curious about the Philippines’ wartime history. It’s a family-run museum owned by the Cat-al family, where you’ll find lots of war artifacts collected by veteran Porforio and his son Felix.
Day trips from Dumaguete
You’ve already seen there are a few things to see and do in Dumaguete, but perhaps the most interesting places are in the surroundings. Negros is an island with a fairly varied geography that includes several volcanoes, lakes, waterfalls, and much more. Add to this interesting coastal spots offering snorkeling, diving, or cool sandbars.
As you’ll see, many of these places for day trips from Dumaguete are located about 40–50 kilometers away. Elsewhere in the world that wouldn’t be much, but because buses in the Philippines are so slow (they make 2,742,057 stops), you shouldn’t underestimate the time it will take to get there. Therefore, we suggest joining a tour (the agency KLOOK has some) or renting a motorbike.
Between Santa Rosa St. and Perdices St. you’ll find several places to rent motorbikes. The daily price depends on how long you rent it, but it usually hovers around 350 pesos per day.
Casaroro Falls, the best waterfalls to see near Dumaguete
These are possibly the most beautiful waterfalls on the island of Negros, but they’re still not as popular as other Philippine waterfalls. Set in a stunning environment, the drop is about 30 meters.
How to get there: By motorbike it will take about 30 minutes to reach the parking area. Once there, you’ll have to go down 357 steps and walk about 20 more minutes along a dirt path (better to wear good footwear). Admission is 20 pesos per person, but then you need to pay 250 pesos for the guide (shared among 3 people).
If you want to go by public transport, small multicabs (mini-jeepneys) to Valencia depart near the market (12 pesos/20 minutes). At the terminal you’ll need to take a habal-habal (motorbike with driver) to the start of the trail (300 pesos for 2 people/20 minutes).
Pulangbato Falls and Red Rock Hot Spring
Lower than Casaroro Falls, the curious thing about Pulangbato Falls is that its water comes from the Okoy River Valley, located at the base of Mount Talinis, an active volcano. This gives it a high concentration of sulfur, easily seen on the rock wall behind the veil of water, which is ochre-colored.
Pulangbato Falls is considerably more developed than Casaroro Falls and much more accessible, so the charm is a little less. Even so, we think it’s worth adding to your list of things to do in Dumaguete. Try to go Monday to Friday to find fewer people.
On the way to these waterfalls you have the chance to see sulfur fumaroles in the mountainsides beside the road. We also suggest making a final stop at Red Rock Hot Spring. This is a hot-spring pool at around 37–39ºC, and they’re open until 20:00—so it’s not a bad idea to bathe for a while once it’s dark. Admission is 60 pesos per person.
How to get there: From Dumaguete, it takes about 30 minutes to reach Pulangbato Falls by motorbike. The descent to the falls is less steep than the previous ones. You’ll need to pay 100 pesos per person to enter. If you want everything taken care of for you, there’s also this tour from Dumaguete.
It’s a good idea to combine Casaroro Falls with Pulangbato on the same day. From Valencia it takes about 35–40 minutes by motorbike. For about 100 pesos more on top of the earlier habal-habal fare you can visit both.
Twin Lakes Natural Park
About 20 kilometers northwest of Dumaguete is the Twin Lakes Natural Park. It gets its name from the two crater lakes, Balinsasayao and Danao. At Lake Balinsasayao you can rent kayaks (100 pesos per hour), take a boat ride (250 pesos per hour), and you’ll also find a restaurant with great views. If you’re very interested in learning more about nature or you’re big on bird-watching, it’s a good idea to hire a guide. This usually costs 1,500 pesos per group.
If you have time, there are plenty of trails in the park that will lead you to several waterfalls (Olayan Falls and Secret Falls are the most photogenic). One of the most popular is the one that goes to the Red River Valley waterfalls—allow about 3–4 hours. Even so, the walk to Lake Danao from Balinsasayao won’t take more than 20–30 minutes, and you’ll get a beautiful panorama from the viewpoint.
How to get to Twin Lakes Natural Park A good way to make the most of the day is to book this KLOOK tour, which combines the lakes with a tour of Dumaguete.
If you want to do the trip on your own, you can take a bus at the Northbound Bus Terminal (25 pesos) or a jeepney from Real St. toward Amlan and get off at La-laan in San Jose. Once there you’ll have to hire a habal-habal (400 pesos round-trip for 2 people). Admission is 100 pesos per person.
Bais + Manjuyod Sandbar
Bais City lies about 45 kilometers north of Dumaguete and is known as the jumping-off point for dolphin-watching trips, specifically spinner dolphins, in the Tañón Strait. Between March and October, with a lot of luck, they say you can see orcas. We’re not sure how this activity is run or whether it’s as hectic as dolphin watching from Panglao, so it’s not something we can recommend.
However, what we think is most interesting in this area is the Manjuyod Sandbar, one of the sandbars in the Philippines less known among foreign tourists. Called the “Maldives of the Philippines,” this 7-kilometer white-sand bar appears when the tide is low, and you can find some basic but picturesque huts on it. Note: the sandbar will only be visible if the tide is very low, which doesn’t always happen, as it depends on the lunar cycle.
Also in the area are the Bulwang Caves, a complex with more than 400 caves that you can visit with a guide (400 pesos for up to 5 people).
How to get there? KLOOK has this excursion from Dumaguete that combines dolphin watching and Manjuyod Sandbar. If you want to get to Bais on your own, you can do so from the Ceres bus station (1–1.5 hours/50–80 pesos). Once there, take a tricycle to Capinahan Wharf, from where you can arrange a boat to the sandbar for 3,700 pesos for up to 5 people (15 minutes). If you add dolphin watching, it goes up by about 1,000 pesos more.
To stay overnight on the Manjuyod Sandbar, keep in mind prices aren’t cheap for how basic the bungalows are, and there’s no electricity. Still, it offers the chance for a unique experience. Expect around 3,000–5,000 pesos and keep in mind there are no restaurants or anything similar—just small boats selling coconuts, sea urchins, or some fish. Up to 15 people fit. Your best bet is to email the Manjuyod Tourism Office (manjuyodtourismoffice@yahoo.com) or the Bais office (baistourism@yahoo.com).
Puncak Tanawan
If you want to stretch your legs, another thing to do from Dumaguete is to climb this peak and enjoy the views. From what’s known as Station 1 (which you can reach by habal-habal for 100 pesos), it’s a 1.5–2-hour ascent to the summit, where there’s a small stall to eat and drink something hot.
Puncak Tanawan is very popular among people from Dumaguete, who often camp to see the sunrise the next day. Admission is 70 pesos per person.
Cuerno de Negros or Mount Talinis
Mount Talinis—also known as Cuerno de Negros for the shape of its peak—boasts the highest summit in Negros Oriental, at 1,864 meters above sea level. There are several trails to reach the top, the most popular being the Bidjao–Apolong Traverse. This can be done in 4–5 hours and passes the mysterious Yagumyum and Nailing lakes and the Twin Falls and Casaroro Falls. Most travelers do it in 2 days, camping by one of the lakes.
The most advisable thing is to hire a guide at the Provincial Tourism Office in Dumaguete.
Dauin
Just a few kilometers south of Dumaguete is the small town of Dauin. While its black-sand beaches won’t win you over at first sight, it’s one of the best places for diving in the Philippines. It’s a true paradise for lovers of macro diving, where you can see quirky creatures like the blue-ringed octopus, mimic octopus, or pygmy seahorses. You can head there yourself and dive with a local center, or arrange an outing with a Dumaguete dive shop. Harold’s Mansion does it, but they don’t always meet the minimum numbers, so ask well in advance.
If you don’t dive, you’ll also find interesting spots for snorkeling and, of course, great resorts to unwind. We tell you much more in our Dauin Guide.
Apo Island, a recommended excursion from Dumaguete
Finally, another thing to do from Dumaguete is to hop over to gorgeous Apo Island to swim with sea turtles. You can do this as a day trip, which you can arrange from almost all the hotels in the city, with Harold’s Mansion usually being the cheapest. It costs 1,200 pesos per person if you only snorkel and 3,300 pesos for 3 dives including food and equipment.
In How to get to Apo Island you have all the details about these tours (basically there’s this one from KLOOK) or how to do it on your own. We’ll warn you that the latter isn’t really worth it unless there are 3 or 4 of you, since boats from Malatapay charge 3,000 pesos round-trip and you’ll need to add fees and food.
Even so, if you have the time, our advice is to stay overnight on Apo Island and enjoy it at a slower pace.
Where to stay
We go into this topic in depth in Where to stay in Dumaguete, but here are a few quick recommendations:
- The Flying Fish Hostel: one of the best hostels for backpackers in Dumaguete. It’s halfway between the airport and the center. Book here.
- Casa Arrieta Hostel: the staff is super lovely and there are double rooms and shared dorms with lockers. It’s not downtown, but you’ll easily get everywhere by tricycle—and they’re so kind and it’s so clean that it’s worth it. Book here.
- Golden Gate Suites: if you want to be right in the thick of it, next to the immigration office, this is your spot. Quite new, air-con, hot water… Book here.
How to get there and get around Dumaguete
Dumaguete has an airport, a port in the city itself and several nearby, as well as a large bus terminal. We explain how to get there in detail in our article How to get to Dumaguete.
Although it’s a relatively large city, you won’t find the traffic jams here that you do in Manila or Cebu. As a result, it’s quite easy to get around by tricycles, jeepneys, or multicabs. There aren’t many taxis, which are basically limited to trips to and from the airport.
The fare for a shared jeepney or tricycle ride around downtown Dumaguete starts at 10 pesos per person. If you want to go farther, the price increases with the kilometers. If you want to rent the whole tricycle, you’ll need to negotiate with the driver. If you’re coming from the airport, it’s 12 pesos per person to the center.
Where to eat in Dumaguete
If you’re a bit tired of so much carinderia, you won’t have any complaints. There are hundreds of places to eat in Dumaguete and go beyond the most typical fare. Plus, since there are a lot of East Asian students who come to learn English, the variety of Asian restaurants is huge. There are also many Westerners settled in the capital of Negros Oriental, so you won’t lack options. Do keep in mind, though, that prices are considerably higher than if you eat from the pot.
In our opinion, the most pleasant places to eat in Dumaguete are concentrated around the intersection of EJ Bianco Dr. and Flores Ave. and along Perdices St.
Here are some places to eat in Dumaguete that we’re sure you’ll love:
- Soban Korean Restaurant: it doesn’t get more Korean than this. You’ve got the famous Korean barbecue, pancakes, bibimbap, and much more.
- Le Chalet Swiss Resto: for something a bit more glamorous, this Swiss and Italian spot will do the trick.
- Sans Rival Cakes & Pastries: the two most famous sweets to eat in Dumaguete are silvanas and sans rivals. To try them, this bakery can’t be beat.
- Panda Ice Cream: a famous fried-ice-cream shop. Yes, you read that right.
- 2 Story Kitchen: you’ll find tasty Korean food here, but also burgers, sandwiches, and coffee at a good price.
- Hayahay: if you’re after a night spot with live music, this is it.
- Lab-as Seafood: located in the same complex as the previous one and open since 1988, it’s an institution for eating in Dumaguete. As you’ve probably guessed, it’s famous for seafood.
- Adamo: Filipino food with a modern touch at quite competitive prices.
- Beyond Plants 6200: if you’re looking for vegan or vegetarian options, don’t hesitate—drop by here.
- Casablanca: very close to Rizal Boulevard, it’s a restaurant owned by an Austrian who’s lived in the city for many years. In addition to typical dishes from his homeland, we tried a great kinilaw. It has a very pleasant terrace.
Of course, there are lots more places to eat in Dumaguete that are much cheaper. For that, we recommend the eateries and carinderias or the night market on Rizal Boulevard. Learn more about them in our article What to eat in the Philippines.
Tips for visiting Dumaguete
- Since it’s a city and you don’t need so much sun to enjoy the beach, it may not be so important to talk about the best time to visit Dumaguete. Even so, if you’re looking for the ideal time, it would be between January and March, when it’s the dry season and temperatures aren’t as high as in April and May. From July to November it’s the rainy season, with October usually being the wettest month. Read more about this in Best time to travel to the Philippines.
- Looking for festivals in the Philippines? While they’re not the most lavish, the Sandurot Festival takes place in mid-November and the Buglasan Festival in late–mid October. Book your hotel well in advance if you plan to visit during these times.
- How many days in Dumaguete? You can cover the main points of interest in Dumaguete in 2–3 hours. Even so, if you want to do some of the nearby day trips, you can stay 2 or 3 days.
- As a large city, you’ll find lots of ATMs. We suggest taking the chance to withdraw enough cash for other places where they’re harder to find.
- We also recommend taking advantage of the decent internet. It’s a university city, so there are plenty of cafés to work with Wi-Fi, and in shopping malls it’s often free for a while.
- If, for whatever reason, you have a medical issue that’s been lingering during your trip, take advantage of the fact that Dumaguete has many hospitals where you’ll get good care. A few good ones: Holy Child, ACE Dumaguete Doctors, and Silliman University Medical Center.
- Remember to get a good travel insurance for the Philippines like the one we use. Get 5% off your policy.
Map of Dumaguete
Here’s a map we made with all these things to do in Dumaguete, hotels, restaurants, and shopping malls:
We hope this list of things to do in Dumaguete helps you make the most of this city on the island of Negros. While Philippine capitals aren’t known for being very pretty, the truth is that Dumaguete is a pleasant city to spend a few days in and to do some activities in the surrounding area.
If you have any questions or suggestions, we’ll be happy to answer them in the comments.
