Donsol is one of the places where to swim with the whale shark in the Philippines. Until 1998, this was a small coastal town that went completely unnoticed by tourism. However, that year a group of divers filmed a video of a butanding (as these animals are known in this part of the Philippines) that later went viral in the press and changed the course of this area of Bicol forever. With the rise of tourism, WWF later arrived to implement an ecotourism program and manage those interactions with the largest fish in the world in a respectful way.
In this Donsol Guide you’ll find everything you need for a getaway to this corner of Luzon. We’ll tell you all about the whale sharks, plus other things to do in Donsol and practical info. Keep reading and discover it all!
Where is Donsol
Donsol is a small town located in the province of Sorsogon, in the Bicol region, the easternmost part of Luzon island. It sits on the coast, in what is known as Donsol Bay. The largest city in the area is Legazpi, famous for being dominated by Mayon Volcano, one of the most impressive volcanoes in the Philippines. It’s about 50 kilometers from Legazpi to Donsol, which takes 1.5 to 2 hours depending on the means of transport you choose.
Most of Donsol’s accommodations and restaurants are concentrated around the Donsol Whale Shark Interaction Center, approximately 3 kilometers from the town itself.
How to get to Donsol
Since it’s so close, the most convenient way to reach Donsol is to go to Legazpi first. To do this, you have two options: look for flights to Legazpi (there are direct ones from Manila or Cebu) or look for buses from Manila to Legazpi. The road journey takes 10–12 hours and, if you’re up for it, you can do it overnight. In fact, there are a few sleeper buses.
Philtranco has one bus a day from Manila to Donsol that departs at 17:00 from the Philtranco Bus Terminal in Pasay City, on the corner of EDSA and Apelo Cruz Street. The ticket is 1.000 pesos and it takes about 14 hours. You have everything explained in Cómo llegar a Legazpi.
In any case, we recommend that you compare prices between the plane and the bus because sometimes the difference isn’t that big if you book in advance and you save a lot of time.
Once in Legazpi, you have these options to get to Donsol:
- By public transport: if you’ve arrived at the airport, take a shared van to the Grand Central Terminal (around 200 pesos) and then any jeepney, bus or van heading to Donsol (around 100 pesos pesos). The van is the fastest; it will take you roughly 1.5 hours to reach the Donsol Centralized Shuttle Station. They depart as they fill up and the last trip from Legazpi to Donsol is at 17:00.
- By private transport: you can negotiate the price of a car or van with driver to take you to your hotel in Donsol. At the airport there are usually people waiting for this purpose. The price will range between 1.500 and 2.000 pesos.
Remember to read our article Transport in the Philippines to get a little familiar with them.
Things to do in Donsol
It’s clear that most travelers have one goal when they come here: to swim with the whale shark. However, we’re also going to tell you about other interesting things to do in Donsol.
1. Swim with whale sharks in Donsol
The Philippines holds the 2nd spot (after Mexico) in number of whale sharks in its waters, with more than 1,950 identified individuals. These are migratory species that arrive in the Philippines mainly from Taiwan, Malaysia and Indonesia. The butanding move around the archipelago in search of nutrient-rich waters, with Donsol being one of these points and, therefore, one of the places where you can see them in the wild.
Best time to see whale sharks in Donsol
The season roughly starts in November and ends in June. That’s when whale sharks stay in Donsol Bay feeding on the plankton and krill that the Donsol River brings to the sea. However, the time when you have a much higher chance is between March and April.
What the experience is like
To do this experience you need to go to the Whale Shark Interaction Center between 7:00 and 14:00. There are more or less established time slots: 7:30, 11:30 and 13:30, but our tip is that, if there are 4 of you or more, go a little after these start times and hire your own boat so there are fewer people in the water. It’s also a good idea to try outside weekends.
After paying, you’ll be introduced to your Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO), your guide on this adventure, who will explain the safety rules and regulations to follow:
- Maximum of 30 boats per day
- Maximum 3 hours per boat
- Maximum 6 swimmers per boat (plus the captain and the guide)
- Do not touch the whale sharks
- Do not restrict the whale shark’s movements or block its path
- Keep a safe distance of 3 meters from the body and 4 from the tail
- No flash photography
- Only one boat per whale shark
Afterward, you’ll watch a video that emphasizes these rules and explains some interesting facts about these animals. When you’re ready, you’ll head to the boat and prepare for the experience.
Once at sea, you’ll see how the guide and their assistant climb to the top of the bangka to spot whale sharks. They circle around to catch the reflection of their little white spots in the water. If they manage to see one, the boat positions itself in the best way so that the swimmers and the BIO can jump and follow along for a bit, since whale sharks, although chubby, swim quite fast. After those moments of sky-high adrenaline, you get back on the boat to repeat the operation until the allowed 3 hours are up.
Of course, seeing a whale shark in Donsol is a matter of luck and it’s not guaranteed. No refunds are given if you don’t see any. That’s nature!
Is it responsible tourism to swim with whale sharks in Donsol?
Unfortunately, although the rules are what they are, not everything is perfect in Donsol. At Viajar por Filipinas we like to be clear with you and we want to tell you about our experience and that of other travelers.
We were very lucky to swim with these wonderful animals here a few years ago and we can assure you that the rules were 100% followed on the two occasions we did it. However, with the rising popularity of the activity, some travelers have told us that the “one boat per whale shark” rule isn’t always followed, especially if there aren’t many sharks in the area and the guides don’t want travelers to leave disappointed.
Therefore, if a long time has passed without spotting a shark, it’s likely that a lot of swimmers will gather, that you’ll get the odd fin slap from someone else and, of course, that it won’t be the best situation for a wild animal.
Of course, what you see in Donsol is still far from the outrage of Oslob, where the starting point is the daily feeding of these animals to ensure their year-round presence in its waters, interrupting their migratory and reproductive cycle. Let’s remember that whale sharks are an endangered species.
According to the work of the LAMAVE Institute, Donsol is still a model of responsible tourism and many travelers have also written to tell us that they find it a place that respects animals. If you’ve been here recently, we would really appreciate it if you left your opinion in the comments. If you see something that doesn’t sit right when you’re there, what we do is point it out to the guide and, afterwards, to the visitors’ center. You might think it doesn’t help much, but little by little, coming from a tourist, it sinks in.
If you’re looking for a quieter place to see these animals and where the interaction rules (up to this moment) are always followed, our resounding recommendation is that you go to swim with the whale shark in Pintuyan or from Padre Burgos.
Price of the whale shark snorkel in Donsol
Here’s a breakdown of the prices for whale shark snorkeling in Donsol:
- Environmental fee: 300 pesos per person (100 pesos for Filipinos).
- Boat: 5.000 pesos per boat for up to 6 people, meaning what you pay will depend on how many you are. Of course, you can try to share with other travelers who are there.
- Snorkel gear rental: if you don’t have it, they usually charge 300 pesos. If you don’t bring fins, we suggest renting them because you’ll miss them when it’s time to swim. The butanding are fast!
2. Firefly excursion – Firefly River Tour
The Ogod River is one of the tributaries of the Donsol River and flows into the sea very close to town. In addition to kayaking during the day, at night it becomes an even more magical place, as you can enjoy a boat ride along it while watching the fireflies that live in the trees on the banks. There are usually loads of them, so many that the trees look like Christmas trees. However, it depends a lot on whether it has rained in the previous days because, in the event of a heavy storm, there may not be as many. The ride is done by boat and lasts about an hour. It can be done from 17:00 to 21:00; it’s best to wait until it’s completely dark.
If this is something you want to do in Donsol, accommodations usually sell tours, but it’s more cost‑effective if you negotiate a tricycle to take you there and wait for you (it’s about a 20‑minute ride) and then you pay for the little boat. On our visit we paid 1.250 pesos for the whole boat for up to 5 people, but we understand prices have gone up a bit, so it’s better to ask at the visitors’ center.
3. Diving in Donsol
If you’re certified and you’re going in season, you shouldn’t miss the chance to do a dive from Donsol. The first thing you need to know is that tank diving is not allowed in the protected area where the whale shark snorkel tour takes place, but there are some dives around the area where you might be lucky enough to see them.
Even so, the most popular dives from Donsol are those to Manta Bowl and the San Miguel Islands (very close to Ticao and with some of the most fascinating soft‑coral seascapes we’ve seen in our lives). At the former you have several dive sites, but the best known is The Bowl, one of the best dives in the Philippines. This is a cleaning station for oceanic manta rays where it’s also quite common to see whale sharks and, sometimes, hammerheads or thresher sharks. The best time is from March to June, when there’s more plankton. That said, it’s a dive for experienced divers, as currents are strong and it’s not unusual to have to hook onto a rock. Most dive centers require you to be at least an Advanced Open Water Diver.
The best‑known center for diving in Donsol is Bicol Dive Center, but you should bear in mind that trips don’t go out daily, since there usually aren’t that many divers in the area. It’s better to contact in advance and, if possible, aim for a weekend so there are people coming from Manila. If you have more time, don’t want such long boat rides and want your dives to be a little cheaper, you can also go to Manta Bowl from Ticao island. Even so, since it’s not a very well‑known place and at least two divers are needed for the boat to go out, it’s best to allow yourself a few extra days if your goal is diving.
4. Jovellar Underground River and Sigpit Falls
Staying in Donsol for several days? You can take the opportunity to do a day trip around the area. The most popular one is the Jovellar Underground River, which Bicolanos describe as a mix between the Puerto Princesa Underground River and Kawasan Falls in Cebu. While you have to take both experiences with a pinch of salt, the truth is that this activity is quite fun, as it gives you the chance to jump into the river pools, make your way upstream as if you were doing a bit of canyoning, and cross its 150‑meter cave on a raft while you observe the stalagmites, stalactites and the bats that inhabit it.
At the end of the journey you’ll find the Sigpit Falls or Quitinday Falls, where you can take another dip. They’re not the most impressive waterfalls in the Philippines, but we thought it was worth including them in this Donsol Guide.
Entrance is 20 pesos per person and the bamboo‑raft ride is 200 pesos for the whole trip (regardless of the number of people).
How to get there? The ride to the Jovellar Underground River from Donsol will take around 90 minutes if you go by motorbike, which you can rent at some accommodations in the area. You can also ask about organized tours or a car with a driver so you’ll get there faster. If you have more time, about 20–30 minutes from the river are the Quitinday Hills, from where you get very cool views of Mayon Volcano.
5. Enjoy the sunsets and the quiet of Donsol
OK, you’ve come to swim with whale sharks in Donsol, but since you’re here, make the most of the experience. While the town’s beaches are by no means the best beaches in the Philippines, mainly because of their dark sand, they’re a perfect place to relax by the sea and watch epic sunsets with a drink in hand.
Further down in this article we recommend some resorts where to stay in Donsol located by the sea, with a pool and a bar. Many of them offer relaxing massages accompanied by the sound of the waves—what more could you ask for?
6. Visit Legazpi and the majestic Mayon Volcano
To wrap up this list of things to do in Donsol, we couldn’t leave out Legazpi. Being so close, we recommend that you do at least a day visit and include the Daraga Church, Legazpi Cathedral and, of course, one of the viewpoints over the beautiful Mayon Volcano. The most popular ones are Ligñon Hill and the Cagsawa Ruins. If you want more adventure, you can do an ATV tour (quad) around the area.
In our article Things to do in Legazpi we tell you more.
Where to stay in Donsol
As soon as you arrive in Donsol you’ll notice that, despite its fame for whale sharks, it’s still a place that is not overly developed for tourism. Most places to stay in Donsol have clustered along the beach area next to the Whale Shark Interaction Center, which is the jewel in the crown. This is also where you’ll have more restaurant options for Western palates. Even so, if what you’re looking for is something more budget‑friendly and local, in the town itself you also have some guesthouses.
Below we tell you about 3 hotels where to stay in Donsol:
Touristlink Homestay
If you’re looking for a budget place to stay in Donsol, look no further—this is your spot. It’s a small hostel in the town center (20 pesos/5 minutes from the Whale Shark Interaction Center) where everything is spotless. Good Wi‑Fi, a kitchen to prepare your own meals, free drinking water and very nice owners. They have rooms with or without air‑conditioning and shared bathrooms from 450 pesos per night.
Book Touristlink Homestay here
Woodland Beach Resort
Right in the Whale Shark Interaction Center area, this is one of Donsol’s most time‑honored resorts. It’s by the sea, so you’ll be able to enjoy the views from the pool or a sun lounger. They have several room types, from “backpacker” ones with 3 single beds to family rooms with 2 double beds. So you don’t have to worry about anything, they have a pretty decent restaurant and a bar with happy hour.
Take a look at Woodland Beach Resort
Vitton Resort
Located right next to the visitors’ center, this is another place to stay in Donsol by the sea with a pool. The hotel is already a little old, but it’s fine for one or two nights and to do the whale shark tour without having to worry much, as they also have a restaurant which, we’re told, is great—they have their own vegetable garden.
Where to eat in Donsol
You won’t find it difficult to look for places to eat in Donsol because most accommodations have a restaurant or bar for their guests. If you’re looking for cheaper options, it’s best to head into town, where there are a few carinderias.
We strongly recommend that you don’t miss the chance to eat typical Bicolano food. The star dish here is Bicol Express, one of our favorites. It’s a meat stew (usually pork) made with chilies, coconut milk, ginger, onion, garlic and shrimp paste. Beware—it’s very spicy, but it’s also delicious!
Here are some recommendations on where to eat in Donsol:
- BARracuda: its Filipina owner—who, by the way, is lovely—worked as a chef for several years in Europe, so she knows how to prepare fresh seafood and fish wonderfully beyond the typical grills. It only opens for dinner and the atmosphere is charming. It’s an institution in Donsol, but the prices are quite high.
- Woodland Beach Resort: the bar at this resort offers happy hour (from 12:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 20:00) to toast after a great whale‑shark day. Cocktails from 100 pesos. They also have a restaurant that isn’t bad at all and has a few vegetarian options.
- Roberto’s Restobar: a small restaurant at the start of town where you can wolf down hefty burgers for less than 200 pesos, as well as pizzas and other Filipino dishes. A place to eat in Donsol with good value for money. They also open for breakfast.
- Justea Café: if you’re looking for a good coffee and to forget about instant, don’t hesitate. They also have pizzas and nachos to snack on.
Tips for visiting Donsol
- Best time to visit Donsol: as you can see, the star of this area of the Philippines is the whale shark, so it makes the most sense to come when they’re around, from November to May. To have even more chances, do it from March to May, which is also the peak dry season.
- What to bring: please don’t use sunscreen during the whale shark tour so as not to affect them. While you’re on the boat you’ll be covered by its roof and in the water you can use clothing that protects you from the sun. We suggest bringing a dry bag to protect your valuables and, of course, a GoPro to capture the moment.
- How many days in Donsol: in reality, one day should be enough to do the whale shark tour and see the fireflies at night. However, there’s a chance you won’t see the butanding on the first outing, so we’d stay at least 2 nights, just in case.
- How to get around Donsol: you can do short rides by tricycle. If you take a private one, you shouldn’t pay more than 50 pesos to go into town from the hotel area. If you want a little adventure, you can rent a motorbike for 300–400 pesos per day.
- Money in Donsol: bear in mind that there are very few ATMs in town and they might not work or have cash. It’s better to be prepared and withdraw in Legazpi. Consider that most things are paid in cash or there’s a fee for paying by card.
- Healthcare in Donsol: healthcare facilities in this area are very basic; if you need a hospital you’ll have to go to Legazpi or, if it’s very serious, be transferred to Manila. It’s essential to carry travel insurance for the Philippines and, in this case, that it covers snorkeling, which not all do. That’s why we use IATI Mochilero. Here’s a 5% discount on your policy.
Donsol Map
You can easily locate everything we’ve mentioned in this Donsol Guide on this map we’ve put together:
We hope our Donsol Guide helps you enjoy these beautiful whale sharks in a respectful way and to discover an area of the Philippines that is still very under‑developed.
If you have any questions or suggestions, we’ll be happy to read you in the comments.
